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Maintaining your car’s cool all the time

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It’s an age-old problem, keeping hot rods cool. Of course we all know hot rods are cool, but often not in the most literal sense of the word. The usual formula goes something like this: build an engine with increased horsepower and then hope the original radiator will handle the load. Or even more common, add A/C to your car for inside comfort but you now have a problem cooling the car in traffic with the addition of a front-mounted condenser.

Well, horsepower generally means more heat and that means increased cooling capacity is in order. Happily today we have all the right equipment available to keep engine temperatures under control. Cooling an engine takes two things, a radiator that will efficiently absorb heat from the water and transfer that heat to outside air. That can only occur if there is sufficient airflow through the radiator fins. For that task we turn to a modern, high-volume electric fan. It’s the killer combo for heat exchange.

Our cooling project revolves around our 1957 Ford Ranch Wagon. Under the hood the original special-order 312 is still in service. Last year we added Vintage Air to the car and noticed about a 5- to 10-degree temperature bump in traffic. We were still running the original radiator and a flex fan without a shroud. The AOD transmission is cooled by an external cooler that is not in front of the radiator.

The temperature rise didn’t cause boil-over but the temperature was high enough to inspire us to bring it back down. Our first thought was possibly adding a shroud, simple enough and it may have worked. But then fate jumped in last year at the NSRA Street Rod Nationals when the original radiator sprung the second leak in a year (jeez), only 57 years old and it’s leaking again. We realized it was time to tackle the cooling system head on.

Our Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts water pump is only a year old so that part was working well and we installed a new engine thermostat at the same time. Since the engine bay has a real original ’50s vibe we decided to go with an original-style radiator. After doing some research we came up with the U.S. Radiator replacement unit. This radiator has stock-style (as in exact duplicate ) upper and lower tanks and is the old-school copper and brass construction, which makes for very efficient cooling. Fitting the radiator to our original core support was a simple bolt-in as the side flanges are exact duplicates of the original. But here’s the cool part (pun intended), there is another full row of core built into the radiator providing the extra cooling for our 312. It is simply the best of both worlds, stock-style, modern cooling.

Cooling an engine is a simple exercise in heat exchange. You need sufficient volume of coolant circulating through the engine to absorb the heat. Then the coolant circulates through the radiator, which transfers that heat to the fins, which provide the required surface area to transfer the heat to the outside air. Now that fin to air transfer can only occur if there is an ample supply of cool air traveling over, under, and around those fins. That’s where a high-volume electric fan comes into play. In traffic the electric fan moves enough air to keep things cool, while on the highway the electric fan is generally not running, allowing the forward motion of the car to provide the cooling airflow. Beyond cooling your car you will also notice a marked improvement in engine noise. Without those big manual fan blades spinning the engine is much quieter.

To provide a good supply of airflow we opted for the Vintage Air LoPro electric fan and shroud combination. The shroud ensures all the air is being drawn through the fins and the powerful fan moves 2,700 cfm so it is very effective.

The final piece of the puzzle is a quality radiator cap. Our U.S. Radiator did not come with a cap so we went to the local parts house and grabbed one off the shelf. It was a cheap import and when we first ran the engine up to temperature and shut it off the radiator “burped” coolant. Well, that new cap didn’t really have a quality feel to it and was even a bit too easy to tighten. We ordered a quality Stant cap from Summit Racing and the problem was solved. Lesson learned, you get what you pay for and it pays to use quality components from start to finish.

Our project involved relocating the A/C condenser forward to make room for the thicker core and also making some nifty brackets to hold the Vintage Air electric fan on the radiator. We used a piece of Steele Rubber universal weatherstripping that we had on the shelf to provide a gasket between the shroud and the radiator core. Our homebrewed brackets hold it all in place. We also installed the optional adjustable temperature fan controller. This allows us to adjust the on/off point for the electric fan.

After that it was a simple bolt-in operation for the hardware. The wiring kit included with the Vintage Air fan included a relay and clear wiring instructions, so that went smoothly. We also added an optional manual switch inside the car so we can turn the fan on manually if required. Finally we recycled the old coolant and filled the system with fresh coolant.

By the time we did all the work we had consumed the better part of a weekend (no one ever accused us of being fast) but in the end we couldn’t be happier with the results. The installation is neat and clean and more importantly the system works perfectly with our temperature gauge running right on the thermostat temperature. You can’t ask for more than that, so follow along to find out how you too can drive a really cool car.

Our faithful 1957 Ranch Wagon cooled the original 312 engine with the original radiator for 57 years. Several radiator leaks and the addition of Vintage Air prompted us to upgrade our cooling system.
Our faithful 1957 Ranch Wagon cooled the original 312 engine with the original radiator for 57 years. Several radiator leaks and the addition of Vintage Air prompted us to upgrade our cooling system.
U.S. Radiator manufactures high-quality, direct replacement brass and copper radiators with factory-style tanks for most vintage cars. The hidden secret to cooling is an extra full row of core, resulting in stock looks, modern cooling.
U.S. Radiator manufactures high-quality, direct replacement brass and copper radiators with factory-style tanks for most vintage cars. The hidden secret to cooling is an extra full row of core, resulting in stock looks, modern cooling.
A radiator can only cool your car if you have an ample supply of air traveling through the fins. To that end we ordered a big 2,700-cfm electric fan from Vintage Air. While airflow is high volume, the sound isn’t; the fan is remarkably quiet.
A radiator can only cool your car if you have an ample supply of air traveling through the fins. To that end we ordered a big 2,700-cfm electric fan from Vintage Air. While airflow is high volume, the sound isn’t; the fan is remarkably quiet.
We began by testfitting the Vintage Air fan to the new U.S. Radiator. The shroud provides the desired full core coverage on the radiator from just below the upper tank to the lower tank.
We began by testfitting the Vintage Air fan to the new U.S. Radiator. The shroud provides the desired full core coverage on the radiator from just below the upper tank to the lower tank.
The bottom of the shroud would require a notch for the lower radiator hose. Cutting the ABS plastic is a simple task.
The bottom of the shroud would require a notch for the lower radiator hose. Cutting the ABS plastic is a simple task.
A little masking tape provided a surface to mark the required cut. The idea is to cut as close to the hose outlet as possible while still leaving room for the hose. Simple tin snips were used to cut the ABS plastic.
A little masking tape provided a surface to mark the required cut. The idea is to cut as close to the hose outlet as possible while still leaving room for the hose. Simple tin snips were used to cut the ABS plastic.
After cutting the hose opening the shroud laid down perfectly on the core. However over time the ABS shroud would wear into the radiator fins and core. To prevent this we laid down two pieces of dense hood and cowl weatherstripping we had on hand from Steele Rubber Products (PN 70-2675-42).
After cutting the hose opening the shroud laid down perfectly on the core. However over time the ABS shroud would wear into the radiator fins and core. To prevent this we laid down two pieces of dense hood and cowl weatherstripping we had on hand from Steele Rubber Products (PN 70-2675-42).
With the fan resting on the rubber strips we set about fabricating four aluminum brackets to securely hold the fan to the radiator. This is the basic layout of the bracket. I use two color markers for layout; the red line is for bending, the black lines for cutting.
With the fan resting on the rubber strips we set about fabricating four aluminum brackets to securely hold the fan to the radiator. This is the basic layout of the bracket. I use two color markers for layout; the red line is for bending, the black lines for cutting.
After cutting out the pieces we put a double offset in the bracket with our metal brake and then drilled the mounting holes, resulting in a clean, simple, and strong bracket.
After cutting out the pieces we put a double offset in the bracket with our metal brake and then drilled the mounting holes, resulting in a clean, simple, and strong bracket.
After mounting each bracket to the fan shroud with stainless steel bolts and poly-lock nuts, we drilled the holes in the outer flange of the radiator for 10-24 stainless button head bolts.
After mounting each bracket to the fan shroud with stainless steel bolts and poly-lock nuts, we drilled the holes in the outer flange of the radiator for 10-24 stainless button head bolts.
Here is the finished bracket bolted in place. We used a piece of 120-grit paper to provide a brushed finish. Also note we had to trim the corner of the shroud for the lower drain hole.
Here is the finished bracket bolted in place. We used a piece of 120-grit paper to provide a brushed finish. Also note we had to trim the corner of the shroud for the lower drain hole.
The idea of a shroud is to force all the air the fan is pulling through the radiator cooling fins. The air travels through the path of least resistance, so if you have a huge opening, such as this lower tank opening, the fan will pull air through that hole rather than the fins.
The idea of a shroud is to force all the air the fan is pulling through the radiator cooling fins. The air travels through the path of least resistance, so if you have a huge opening, such as this lower tank opening, the fan will pull air through that hole rather than the fins.
We formed a shroud extension to cover the lower hole. The thin aluminum sheet is bolted to the shroud while the leading edge of the sheet is taped to the lower tank using modern aluminum duct tape available at any home improvement center. This is not conventional old-school duct tape, but thin aluminum tape.
We formed a shroud extension to cover the lower hole. The thin aluminum sheet is bolted to the shroud while the leading edge of the sheet is taped to the lower tank using modern aluminum duct tape available at any home improvement center. This is not conventional old-school duct tape, but thin aluminum tape.
We installed the adjustable thermostat sender into the lower port where the drain plug is generally found. Teflon tape seals the deal.
We installed the adjustable thermostat sender into the lower port where the drain plug is generally found. Teflon tape seals the deal.
The adjustable portion of the fan temperature controller was mounted to the outer flange of the radiator. Locate the adjuster in an area you can reach once the radiator is installed in the car.
The adjustable portion of the fan temperature controller was mounted to the outer flange of the radiator. Locate the adjuster in an area you can reach once the radiator is installed in the car.
We plugged the wires into the adjustable thermostat controller prior to installing the radiator and left ample wire for final connections. This is much easier than trying to connect the spade connectors in the car.
We plugged the wires into the adjustable thermostat controller prior to installing the radiator and left ample wire for final connections. This is much easier than trying to connect the spade connectors in the car.
We mounted our Vintage Air A/C condenser to the front core support with simple aluminum brackets. Ideally the condenser will be as close as possible to the radiator.
The wiring kit for the electric fan includes a circuit breaker and relay. The wiring directions are very straight forward and we had it wired in no time. Some wiring systems have a fan relay integrated into the panel.
The wiring kit for the electric fan includes a circuit breaker and relay. The wiring directions are very straight forward and we had it wired in no time. Some wiring systems have a fan relay integrated into the panel.
We opted to install a manual fan-on switch in the car. This enables us to turn on the fan manually.
We opted to install a manual fan-on switch in the car. This enables us to turn on the fan manually.
And here’s the finished product, our new U.S. Radiator and Vintage Air electric fan fit great and cool the engine perfectly. Note we used a new quality radiator cap to complete the system.
And here’s the finished product, our new U.S. Radiator and Vintage Air electric fan fit great and cool the engine perfectly. Note we used a new quality radiator cap to complete the system.

The post Maintaining your car’s cool all the time appeared first on Hot Rod Network.


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